An Aussie Thanksgiving

After two years of missing out on Turkey Coma, I decided that this year, some Thanksgiving was better than none.  Planning the holiday on the other side of the globe took some adjusting.  Here turkey is reserved for Christmas, so we had a fish dinner (I'm sure they ate fish in Plymouth too!), and our feast had to be cooked around our work schedules.  But when it came down to it, we had the essentials - a great evening with the family, and delicious dessert.

Most Australians have heard of Thanksgiving, but not too many know what the holiday is for.  I didn't have time to make everyone pilgrim hats and feather headdresses, but I did give a little history lesson. Mostly, I tried to convey how Thanksgiving is such a beautiful celebration of everything we're thankful for - from the little things like a football win, right up to wonderful family and friends. 

For some reason, one thing Aussies all know about is pumpkin pie.  Anyone I mentioned Thanksgiving to asked if I was making pumpkin pie, or "Does your Mum (translation: Mom) have a special recipe?"  As someone who has never had pumpkin pie, at Thanksgiving or otherwise, I got a kick out of their fascination.  But for now, I'll stick to apple crisp.

Royal Arrival

Queen Elizabeth II arrived in Brisbane yesterday, and did exactly what all tourists do upon arriving in town - went to meet the koalas from Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  Except, if you're the Queen, the koalas come to you.

Unlike the United States, which roared for independence at the earliest opportunity, Australia has never completely cut ties with England.  Like Canada, India, and many other former colonies, Australia remains part of the British Commonwealth, and is a constitutional monarchy under the system.  So although Australian laws and governing practices are a neat combination of American and English systems, the country is still closely bound to the monarchy.  In fact, the English monarch is still the Head of State in Australia, a role which comes with fun little perks, like being featured on all Aussie money.

As you would expect, this strange situation leads to lots of political musings down under.  Aussies are pretty clearly split, according to the polls - many like the idea of having a Queen, and feel it honors the heritage of the country (after all, a generation ago it was not uncommon to hear Australians refer to England as "home," even if they hadn't ever set foot in the country).  Others question why an independent country would allow the head of a different independent country to represent them - and we must admit that put that way, the system does sound silly.  Overall, Aussies, like the rest of us, are a bit enamoured with the Royals, especially Lizzie.  However, when Queen Elizabeth dies, calls for Australia to become an independent republic are sure to increase.

Despite all this, the Queen picked a lovely day to drop into the state that is named after her.  Queensland has had a very rough ten months, betweens floods and cyclones, but has really made an amazing recovery - nearly everything is back to normal.  The Queen and Prince Phillip took a boat ride up the now-tame Brisbane river, and walked through Southbank, the parklands that were completely under water nine months ago.  Then, a mere four hours after she arrived, she waved goodbye to Brisie.  After all, she is a very busy lady.

Mount Warning

Last weekend, Mark and I finally got around to doing something that I've been told to do for a year - hiking Mount Warning.  The extinct volcano sits in far New South Wales, just beneath the Queensland border, shooting up from lush rainforest and cane fields.  Mount Warning is very near Cape Byron, the most easterly point in Australia.  Because of it's easterly position, and it's height (it rises 1157 meters, or 3796 feet about sea level) Mount Warning is the first place on mainland Australia to catch the sun's rays.

We weren't quite brave enough to do hike by torch (American translation: flashlight) in order to catch the sun rise, but the two-hour assent was just as stunning after the sun had risen.  The steep mountainside was littered with massive boulders, and trickling creeks just waiting for a good rain.  Trees that are hundreds of years old towered over ferns that were taller than my five and a half feet.  I like to think that I'm not often at a loss for words, but I just kept saying "It looks like Jurassic Park!"  It is certainly a landscape completely different from anything in the states.  

To local aboriginals, the mountain, know as "Wollumbin," or "cloud catcher," is sacred, and only selected individuals are supposed to reach the summit.   Despite this, Mount Warning has become a popular treck for Australians and tourists alike.  The mountain is steep, but the path is well cared for, and accessible.  As it wound around the mountain we went from baking in the sun to freezing cold, depending on how the wind was blowing.  

Luckily, when we did reach the top there was nothing above us but Aussie blue sky, and the sun heated us right up.  From the summit you can see out to the ocean, and look over all the other mountains and plateaus that make up the area.  A plaque at the top says that when early explorers reached the summit, they were so fascinated by the views that they stayed overnight without food or water.  I was still very keen on my sandwich, but the views were stunning, especially when you think about those early explorers, who came from relatively flat England, and would never had enjoyed a bird's eye view before.

Now, you're probably thinking "the climb wasn't too bad, the sun was out, no deadly Aussie animals - so why the forbidding name?"  The "warning" actually has nothing to do with the mountain itself.  In 1770, Captain Cook, the original Aussie explorer, named the mountain, which he spotted from sea.  The giant that stands so clearly above the rest of the horizon was a perfect warning sign for the dangerous reefs that Cook had encountered in the ocean just off the New South Wales Coast.  Hence the (badsass) name!

We made it!

View over the Hinderland and out to sea

Riverfire

Saturday night brought the kickoff of the Brisbane Festival, and with it, Riverfire, the annual fireworks display that all of Brisbane comes out to see.  I'm afraid as fireworks go, if you've seen one, you haven't seen them all.  Granted, I'm someone who gets excited on the Fourth of July, and will even brave the winter cold to see the New Year welcomed in on Boston Harbour, but I really thought this fireworks display was amazing.

The Brisbane River snakes an "s" through the city, carving cliffs along pretty peninsulas, and making the perfect setting for Riverfire.  All along the river were timed fireworks displays, bursting through the sky and reflected in the water below.  The rockets shot off barges, buildings, and bridges, bathing the whole city in colour.  Whereas New Years can get a bit rowdy, Rivefire is more of a family affair, and alcohol was banned from most viewing areas.  This meant that the families were out in force, and it was great to see a city with its eyes locked to the sky.

Fireworks shooting off the skyscrapers in the CBD

The iconic Story Bridge

Boston to Brisbane... And Back

Just short of a year after my adventures in Australia began, I realized that the adventure that my heart really needed was a trip back to Beantown.  For all the amazing technology - cheap international call rates, video chat, and Skype to Go - nothing compares to sitting across from your loved ones with a glass of wine and a year's worth of stories.

As I boarded the plane for the two week trip, I was thrilled, but anxious.  What would it be like to take a visit home?  Has my perspective changed?  After spending six months in London, I remember cursing the slow-moving, slovenly-dressed American students as I fought my way through the sidewalks of BU. What if it wasn't just a college campus phenomenon?  What if I found that Americans do live up to their somewhat damaged reputations?

Luckily, this wasn't the case.  On the plane, I sat next to a young man from West Virginia, who was studying on the Great Barrier Reef.  In back of us were two women and their mother, returning from their Australian Holiday.  Myth #1: American minds don't reach beyond America.  False.

When we reached LA, the first, most noticeable change was the diversity of the United States.  I can count on my hands the number of black people I've seen in Australia.  In LAX, the majority of employees were minorities, and announcements were read in English, y en Español.  The black stewardess, the hispanic secretary, and the eastern-European dentist that I visited only represent a fraction of the ethnicities and cultures that call America home.  Myth #2: America as the melting pot.  True.

Sadly, in LA, Americans lived up to their reputations for being rude, rushed, and loud.  As an American I know this isn't always the case (even Bostonians can be warm and friendly - if the Red Sox have won), but I would hate for someone's first impression of America to be the bombardment of landing in LAX.  Myth #3: Loud Americans.  Oh too true.

Everyone knows Americans do things big, and this was crystal clear after being gone for a year.  The roads are wider, the trucks are larger... even ice cubes and coffee mugs seem supersized in The States.  Myth #4: In America, Bigger is Better: True.

As I visited home, I was reminded not to take it for granted.  It is amazing to see Australia, and travel the world, but I was honestly surprised by how impressive New England is.  Boston is a charming city, full of parks, and brownstones... what other city could spawn a classic like Make Way for Ducklings?  The rivers and hills that snake through new England are stunning, and there is simply nothing more beautiful than watching the sun set over Lake Winnipesaukee.    Until you spot a shooting star.

Moreton Island

Back in Brisbane, Lauren, Mark and I took a daytrip across the bay to Moreton Island.  The island is one of the largest sand islands in the world, sitting in the waters off Brisbane.  Most of the island is natural parks, but it is also home to Tangalooma, a nature resort famous for its dolphin-feeding program.

I've seen lots of amazing things in Australia, and the Tangalooma dolphins are certainly high on that list.  Moreton Bay is home to hundreds of dolphins.  In the early 1990s, when Tangalooma resort was just beginning, lights were installed on the jettie (American translation: dock).  These lights began attracting fish, which in turn brought dolphins close to shore to find an easy meal.  As the dolphins became regular visitors, fishermen began throwing extra fish to the dolphins.  Like all wild animals, the dolphins soon learned to take advantage of an easy meal, and appeared at the jettie nightly.

This is when the resorts new owners decided to attempt to hand-feed the wild dolphins.  They began by getting in the water and throwing fish to one regular visitor, until the dolphin was eventually comfortable enough to take the fish from their hands.  Almost twenty years later, eleven wild dolphins visit Tangalooma at sunset, and accept hand-fed fish from delighted guests.

I have been eager to feed the dolphins at Tanglooma since I arrived in Australia.  After an exciting day of parasailing and quad biking on Moreton Island, Lauren, Mark, and I were watching the sunset over the bay when Mark spotted the first dolphin coming in.  As more and more guest gathered on the jettie, eight dolphins came in, splashing around and sticking their heads above water to see their audience.

The dolphin feeding program is now very regulated, since it does deal with wild animals.  The dolphins are fed under 20% of their dietary needs, so that they don't become reliant on the tourist feedings, and only dolphins that are born into the program can be fed - if a new dolphin appeared, he would not be given any fish.  To our disappointment there is also a strict no-touching policy, so we were all hoping the dolphins would brush up against us.

Actually getting in the water with the dolphins was amazing, but scary!  Dolphins are large, and although the staff assured us that the dolphins knew the difference between fish and human hands, you couldn't help but notice those sharp teeth coming toward you.  However, the dolphins are professionals.  As they swam in, they  waited in their designated spots along the beach (the dolphins are fed in pairs in specific "lanes"), and knew just what to do when we handed them the fish.

A free meal for the dolphins, and a great adventure for tourists - a perfect pairing!

The other Tanglooma activities.

We couldn't spot any dolphins from 500 feet up!

Sydneyside

 From Phillip Island, Lauren and I headed north along the coast toward Sydney.  I had be warned many, many times about driving this trip, because Australia is so vast.  After half way across the US last year, I thought  we'd be just fine, but nothing really prepared us for the drive between Melbourne and Sydney.  After crossing through cow country, we got into the mountains, where we were surrounded by a wall of trees for hours.  One lane, no other cars, and basically a tunnel through the forest.  Needless to say, we were thrilled to see this sign:

After seeing that glorious sight, we needed to switch camper vans.  We picked up our new van, as well as directions to get to our campground.  Five minutes later, we were navigating rush-hour Sydney traffic and heading toward the Harbour Bridge.  Even though it was dusk, rainy, and we were exhausted after a long drive, driving over the Harbour Bridge and sneaking a quick peak at the Opera House was a great welcome to Sydney.

The next day we set out to see the sights.  It's impossible to get a hold on a city in a day, but Lauren and I really did make an effort with Sydney.  We started our day with a free student-guided tour of the city.  It was a great way to see all the major sights, and spend time with a Sydneysider, as the city's residents are known.

Sydney reminded me a lot of Boston.  The cities are both built around the water, but the similarities go beyond the obvious.  As we were walking around the city, we quickly realized how small it is - the entire city is walkable.  We were also stopping every few blocks to look at a historical monument - the flag planted by the First Fleet, or a pub where the British navy sailors used to gather.  In history and charm, Boston and Sydney could go tit for tat.

But Sydney certainly has one thing over Bean Town - the beaches.  We hopped a bus to the world-famous Bondi Beach, on the south side of Sydney.  Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate, but the beach was beautiful even with clouds and wind, so it has certainly earned its reputation. 

In the afternoon, we took a ferry across the Harbour to Manly, another beach on the northern side of the city.  For anyone visiting Sydney, this is a must do.  As the ferry pulled out from the dock, we had a gorgeous view of the city (evidence in the picture up top).  Just as we turned away from that sight, we were saw the stunning mouth of the harbour - massive bluffs cascading into the Pacific.  And, like most Aussie beaches, Manly did not disappoint.  It was the perfect end to our day in Sydney.

Sydney and the Harbour Bridge

The Opera House